Fairy Rings in the Lawn

Fairy Rings which are caused by fungi start to show signs of activity during the end of spring or early summer. They are easily recognisable with distinct dark green rings and/or fruiting bodies including mushrooms, toadstools and puffballs. The rings can be full or part circle.

Although there are thousands of types of fungi that cause these rings, there are in fact only 3 types of Fairy Ring, each having different characteristics. Fairy Rings start from a central point and gradually increase in size, with the rings getting larger as time passes. In most cases they increase about 80mm - 150mm in size each year.

Fairy Rings degrade the organic matter in the lawn, it is then broken down by micro organisms and released as nitrogen. The nitrogen is then made available for plant uptake, giving the lawn its distinct dark green ring.
They can be found in all types of lawns and turf, including luxury lawns, golf greens, sports fields and neglected turf.

There are 3 types of Fairy Ring.

• Type 1 fairy ring: This type of Fairy Ring is the most destructive and damaging as it produces a ring of dead grass. The dead area can contain fruiting bodies in the form of mushrooms, toadstools and puffballs. If a section of soil is removed from the dead area, white thread or hair like structures called mycelium will be visible in the soil. Mycelium is hydrophobic (water repellant) and it is this that produces the dry patch, causing the grass to die.
• Type 2 fairy ring: Type 2 fairy rings are identified by their dark green rings, with or without fruiting bodies. In fact it is similar to a type 1 fairy ring without the dead ring of grass. At worst this type of ring can appear unsightly with its lush growth, accompanied with fruiting bodies.
• Type 3 fairy ring: The most inconspicuous type of Fairy Ring, as the dark ring of grass is absent. Only the ring of fruiting bodies will be visible at different times of the year. The least damaging of the 3 types.

Control of Fairy Rings
Fairy Rings can be masked with applications of nitrogen when they appear. Nitrogen produces dark green grass growth helping the remaining lawn blend in well with the Fairy Ring. However it is important to apply excessive nitrogen, as it can lead to other lawn or turf problems.

If you are dealing with a type 1 Fairy Ring regularly soaking the infected area and treating it with a wetting agent may help. However this should be undertaken before the soil gets too dry, or it may prove very difficult to re-wet.

The final option is to remove the Fairy Ring from the lawn, golf green etc, by digging it out. Remove all of the soil from inside the ring and 500mm from the outside edge the ring, this needs doing to a depth of 300mm.

It is important not to drop any of the infected soil onto the healthy turf, so take extreme care when doing this task. Replace the soil that has been removed with fresh soil and re-seed. This method is only recommended as a last resort.

Although fungicides are available for Fairy Rings results may be mixed and in many cases unsuccessful. Many gardeners can accept types 2 & 3, it is type 1 that gives the most problems.

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Soil Compaction in the Lawn

What is soil compaction

Most lawns will have or will experience the affects of soil compaction during their lifetime. All soils require a certain percentage of air in order to support a healthy lawn.

Soil compaction occurs when the majority of the air is squeezed out of the soil by excess traffic. The traffic can include garden machinery such as mowers, vehicles like cars or people using the lawn.

The more traffic the lawn receives the greater the compaction, is likely to be and the soil particles are pushed together reducing the amount of pore space available for air.

Generally speaking soils with a high content of clay are more prone to compaction than sandy soils. This is because clay has a smaller particle size than sand and the air is squeezed out more easily, especially when the soil is wet.

When soils become compacted the following happens:

• Air space is reduced.
• Root growth is restricted and shallow rooted weed grasses invade at the expense of the deeper rooted desirable grasses.
• Drainage is impeded and water logging and puddling become the norm.
• As root growth is shallow, then the lawn becomes very susceptible to drought conditions.
• The lawn is open to attack from pests such as broad-leaved weeds and disease, as growth is likely to be thin and the grass plant will be unhealthy.
• As the grass becomes stressed due to soil compaction, nutrient uptake is generally poorer than on healthy turf.
• The thatch layer will build up quicker, as the micro organisms, which breakdown the thatch in the lawn, require air to survive.

All of the above symptoms and conditions, result in a weak lawn and something must be done to restore the lawn to its former health.
A good way to test if you have soil compaction is to push a garden fork or soil profiler into the lawn. If there is too much resistance, you may have compaction and steps will have to be taken to address the issue.

Controlling soil compaction

Compaction can be relieved using some form of lawn aeration. In fact regular aeration should be carried out at least once a year on most lawns. Clay soils may need additional aeration they are more at risk to compaction than light sandy soils.

There is a variety of aeration equipment and tools available to the amateur gardener to combat soil compaction. These include hand forks, hand corers and powered spikers and corers. For more information on these you can visit our lawn aeration and lawn aerators page.

Once you have successfully controlled compaction it is important to prevent it from returning by aerating the lawn on a regular basis. Aerate at least once a year, twice if you soil is prone to soil compaction.

Aeration is regularly carried out on sports turf such as football fields, golf and bowling greens. Turf professionals know the ills of soil compaction and do something about it prior to it becoming a problem. Sports turf receives a large amount of traffic and regular routine aeration is required to prevent soil compaction.

Turf professionals have a variety aerators at their disposal. These aerators include verti-drain machines which heave shatter the soil, hollow tine machines which remove cores of thatch and soil, shallow spikers, air injection aerators and more.

Each machine has its own benefits and uses in the battle against compaction. Another important factor is that turf professionals vary the depth of aeration to stop a pan forming in the soil.

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Sulphate of Iron on Lawns

Sulphate of Iron is one of the most widely used products in the professional turf care industry. This is because it is very versatile, it had many uses and is also relatively cheap to purchase. This product is primarily used for controlling moss during the spring months, however it can also be used to help prevent certain lawn diseases and discourage earthworm activity, thus preventing worm casts.

It is also a great product for giving the lawn a quick green up, particularly during the winter months when the grass is looking yellow and tired.

Moss Control

For many generations sulphate of iron has been the best product for controlling moss in the lawn. It is one of the main ingredients in lawn sand. Lawn sand is made up of:

• Sulphate of Iron - This product controls the moss in the lawn. 
•  Sulphate of Ammonia - This is a nitrogen based fertiliser which creates rapid grass growth, thus helping the lawn recover rapidly once the moss has been killed and removed. 
•  Sand - This is simply used as a carrier to bulk the product up. This helps with the application of the product.

Lawn sand should be applied during the spring time when grass growth is just getting started. After 2 weeks the moss should have been killed sufficiently for it to be removed from the lawn with a powered lawn rake or scarifier.

Sulphate of iron is also Incorporated into many other lawn feed products used for moss control. Most fertiliser companies have weed feed and moss control products. The vast majority of these products contain sulphate of iron.

Worm Suppression 

Worm casts can be a major nuisance during the autumn and winter months when the conditions are wet and humid. As Iron sulphate acidifies the surface of the lawn this helps discourage worm activity, as worms don't like acidic conditions.

Sulphate of Iron applied every 4 - 6 weeks at a rate of 10g/m2 during periods of worm activity, can help reduce worm numbers thus reducing the number of worm casts. Worms tend to be more problematic on heavy clay soils rather than lighter sandy soils.

Disease Prevention

Although turf diseases are not an issue on most typical garden lawns they can be a major headache on closely mown sports turf such as golf and bowling greens. For these reasons sulphate of iron is also regularly used in conjunction with turf fungicides to help prevent and control disease, especially fusarium patch disease.

Applying this product every 4 - 6 weeks at 10g/m2 will help prevent any fusarium patch disease problems.

Application Methods

Sulphate of Iron is readily available in a powder form, and although it can be applied in this form it best dissolved in hot water and applied through a sprayer or a watering can. It is also important that it has dissolved properly as it can be prone to blocking sprayer nozzles if it hasn't been mixed enough.

Take care when mixing, as Sulphate of Iron can stain clothes or concrete path ways. If any solution is splashed onto your clothing wash them separately to other garments as it may contaminate them too.

For sulphate of iron based products such as lawn sand and weed, feed and moss control products always follow the instructions on the packaging.

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How high should I mow my lawn

One of the most common mowing questions is 'how high should I cut my lawn'. In fact there is no one answer to this question as it can depend on may factors:

Quality of the lawn - If you are maintaining a luxury lawn you will want to mow it shorter than someone who is maintaining a general purpose lawn. A luxury lawn would contain a high proportion of bents and fescues, these grasses are very fine, produce a tight sward and tolerate close mowing. It should also be noted if you are going to mow you lawn short, it will require a lot more maintainance and work to keep it in tip top condition.

Weather conditions - As the weather can be very unpredictable, you have to adjust your height of cut accordingly. E.g During periods of drought the lawn will come under a lot more stress and the height of cut may have to be raised to help the lawn cope.

Wear and tear on the lawn - A lawn that receives a vast amount of wear and tear would suffer if it was mown very short, so the height would have to adjusted accordingly to help the lawn retain grass cover.

Soil type - Although the soil type would not have direct affect on the mowing height, soils of a sandy nature would suffer more in dry conditions. Lifting the height of the mower would help relieve some of stress on the grass caused by the adverse weather conditions.

Time of the year - Grass can be mown somewhat shorter during the summer moths where growth is stronger than in the winter months where growth is lacking.

Guide for lawn and grass cutting heights

Luxury lawns - During the summer months acceptable heights would vary from 10mm to 15mm raising it in the winter to 20mm.
Utility lawns - During the summer a height between 20mm - 25mm would be ideal, then during winter raise it to 30mm.

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Choosing the right mower for your lawn

As a lawn mower is the most widely used piece of equipment on the lawn it is very important that you choose the right type of mower to begin with. A good lawn mower that is correctly set up and maintained is essential to the health and appearance of the lawn.
The problem is nowadays there are many types of lawn mower to choose from it can become a bit confusing for the gardener to tell which is best type for their lawn. Lawn mowers can be walk behind or ride on, cylinder or rotary and powered by petrol, diesel or electric.

Types of lawn mower

There are two main types of lawn mower, these are cylinder and rotary mowers, each has advantages and disadvantages for different types and sizes of lawn.

• Cylinder lawn mower

  This type of lawn mower is the best option if you want a first rate luxury lawn as the quality of cut is so much better than that of a rotary lawn mower. They are available as both walk behind and ride on, however for most situations a pedestrian walk behind mower will be the preferred choice as ride on cylinder mowers can be very expensive.
  A cylinder mower has series of blades mounted onto a central spindle, these blades can number anywhere between 4 to 12, (more blades produces a better quality cut). It also consists of another fixed bottom blade running parallel to the surface of the lawn and the central spindle. As the spindle rotates, it traps the grass against the fixed bottom blade and it is cut with a scissor type action. This type of cutting action leaves a very professional finish on the lawn especially at low cutting heights. However with these mowers you have to mow the lawn on a regular basis as cylinder mowers do not cope well with overgrown lawns.
  A cylinder mower will generally have two rollers fitted, a large roller on the rear and a smaller roller at the front of the mower. The rear roller drives the mower and in certain cases drives the cutting cylinder. The front roller is where the height of cut is adjusted as it supports the mower. N. b. On some cylinder mowers the H.O.C is adjusted on the rear roller. It is the rollers on a lawn mower that produce the light green / dark green stripes on a lawn.
  Almost all cylinder mowers come with a grass box to remove the grass clippings. If you desire a high quality lawn it is very important that clippings are removed from the lawn. If clippings are left on the surface of the lawn they can increase the rate of thatch build up.
  A cylinder mower is more costly to purchase and maintain than a rotary mower.
  

• Rotary lawn mower

  A rotary lawn mower is the most common type of mower due to its ease of maintenance, cheaper purchase price and suitability to a wide range of lawns. If you want a general purpose utility lawn, a rotary mower would be the obvious choice.
  A rotary lawn mower cuts the grass using a single / multiple blades, these blades are mounted parallel to the lawn and rotate quickly cutting the grass with a slicing action. It is important that the blade / blades are kept sharp to prevent damage to both the lawn and the mower.
  A rotary lawn mower will not give as good a quality finish as a top end cylinder mower. However in recent years improvements have been made on rotary mowers and they can give a very acceptable finish for most gardeners and lawn care enthusiasts.
  This type of mower is ideal if you have a habit of letting the lawn get a little overgrown as they perform quite well in these situations, where lawn is a little longer.
  
  Some rotary mowers come with grass boxes to remove the grass clippings, and some have a rear roller fitted to give a nice striped appearance.
  
  Flymo hover mowers - Another type of very popular rotary mower is the Flymo. The cutting action is the same as other rotary mowers, the difference being is that there are no wheels as it rides on a cushion of air. When the engine is running, an 'impeller' produces a powerful jet of air causing the mower to float on the surface of the lawn. These mowers are very manoeuvrable and ideal for tight spaces, steep banks and uneven lawns.
  

How are lawn mowers powered

A lawn mower can be powered or driven by a different methods, these being petrol, diesel, electric, battery and hand, each has is own advantages and disadvantages.

• Hand powered mowers

  This type of lawn mower will always be a cylinder mower, it is simply pushed across the lawn under pedestrian power. Although they can be hard work, they are quiet in use, useful on small lawns with tight areas and of course have no running costs to speak of.
  

• Electric powered mowers

  Available in both rotary and cylinder mowers these mowers are generally cheaper than petrol and diesel powered mowers. The electric power source powers the cutting blade, this means the mower still has to be manually pushed across the lawn. The big disadvantage with this type of lawn mowers is the cable, which has to be kept out of the way and will only stretch so far. A good choice for small lawns where manoeuvrability is not a problem.
  

• Petrol & diesel powered mowers

  Many pedestrian cylinder and rotary mowers run on petrol, although more costly than the others, this is the most preferred and easiest method of powering a mower. This method is suitable for most types of lawn. Larger ride on mowers can be both petrol or diesel powered, these ride on mowers will generally be rotary mowers and are ideal for large areas. Ride on cylinder mowers are available but are very expensive and are predominantly used in the professional turf care industry.

Which type of lawn mower is best for my lawn

Using the information above and the chart below will enable you to make the correct choice of lawn mower.

	Push Cylinder	Electric Cylinder	Petrol Cylinder	Electric Rotary	Petrol Rotary	Ride-on Mower
Small lawn
Large lawn
Luxury lawn
Utility lawn
Bumpy lawn
Awkward
Quiet
Inexpensive

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Tips for overseeding a lawn

Over seeding new grass seed into an existing lawn is always going to prove very difficult task. This is because the new seedlings will have to compete with the established grasses and they will need all the help they can get to ensure they not only germinate, but establish successfully too.

However there are a few factors to take into consideration, and these can ultimately determine how successful your overseeding regime will be.

• Soil Compaction - Any soil or rootzone that suffers from extreme compaction will have a detrimental effect on any over seeding program. A compacted soil is a very poor environment for new seedlings to establish. Even established grasses struggle to grow on a compacted soil so what chance are new seedlings going to have? virtually none! A compacted soil will be devoid of oxygen, this will in turn lead to poor drainage, poor drought resistance, excessive thatch build, all to the detriment of your over seeding program. 

• An Excessive Thatch Layer - Thatch is the accumulation of organic matter that builds up between the grass sward and the soil. Although a little thatch is beneficial to the lawn, too much will see your over seeding program suffer. The ideal sowing depth for grass seed is usually just below the thatch layer with the seed just coming into contact with the soil. This is difficult to achieve if your lawn has an excessive layer thatch. If the grass seed is sown with in the thatch layer, it may well germinate but it will have a difficult time establishing successfully.

• The Temperature of the Soil - One of the most important factors that will have a major influence on the success of your over seeding program is the soil temperature. This is one of the key reasons many people prefer the late summer over the spring for over seeding. This is because the soil is warmer in late summer which will aid grass seed germination and establishment. That said, there is no problem with over seeding during the spring, however the results maybe inconsistent and in some cases disappointing. In recent years we have experienced cold springs with overnight frosts, which havent been great for over seeding, often yielding very poor results.

• Irrigation and watering - The amount of water the lawn receives following overseeding will also play a part in the germination of the seed. All new seed requires water to establish successfully. However getting the balance right is important, apply just enough to maintain adequate soil moisture.

• Mechanical operations prior to over seeding - Carrying out key lawn maintenance tasks such as aeration or scarification and raking prior to overseeding will be very beneficial in helping the seed to germinate and establish successfully. These operations help open up the surface of the lawn creating a seed bed where the seed comes into contact with the rootzone.  This will help promote both good germination and establishment of the seed.

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Anthracnose lawn disease

Anthracnose is caused by the fungus Colletotrichum graminicola. It can attack most species of grass on the lawn butannual meadow grass (Poa annua) is very susceptible (hence the previous name of this disease was 'Basal rot of Poa annua'). Antracnose is a stress disease attacking grasses that are under stress due to environmental factors.

Identification of anthracnose

Anthracnose usually appears on the lawn during the late summer and can persist well into winter, even into the following spring. Be vigilant and look for annual meadow grass plants that are starting to turn yellow, with the youngest leaf turning an orange to red colour on infected plants. As the severity of this disease increases the patches can grow to 150mm in diameter and the base of the infected area turns black.

Causes of anthracnose

As we previously mentioned anthracnose is a stress disease so pay attention to keeping the lawn in a healthy condition with good lawn care practices.

• Ensure the lawn receives adequate nutrition, (however it is important not to over apply nitrogen during the late summer and autumn as it may lead to problems with fusarium patch disease).
  
• Soil compaction can also influence anthracnose.
  
• Prolonged leaf wetness will encourage anthracnose to spread.
  
• Hot and dry conditions leading to drought stress, will encourage anthracnose.
  

How to prevent and cure anthracnose

To put it simply pay attention to remedying the causes of anthracnose

• Ensure the lawn receives adequate nutrition to keep the grass in healthy condition.
  
• Relive compaction with aeration, in the form of slitting, spiking or even hollowtining.
  
• As anthracnose predominantly attacks annual meadow grass reduce the amount of this grass in the lawn by encouraging disease resistant grasses with good lawn care management practices.
  
• Raising the height of cut on the mower will also help reduce the stress levels of the grass and help combat the spread of anthracnose.
  
• Reduce the time that the leaf surface remains wet by removing early morning dews.
  

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Moles in the lawn

There are few lawn and turf problems that cause as much damage to the lawn, and frustration to the gardener as moles. These creatures can cause widespread damage to all types of lawn. Moles create runs (tunnels) in the soil beneath the surface of the lawn, as the runs are built the excess soil is pushed onto the surface of the lawn. These tunnels can often cover a large area and affect the whole lawn.

Moles are carnivorous creatures, their diet includes insects, grubs with their main food source being earthworms. Moles are solitary creatures and can measure up to 20cm in length with soft velvety coloured fur that is grey to black in colour. Moles have very powerful front limbs that act as shovels as the burrow underground, they have a very keen sense of smell, they have good hearing but their eyesight is very poor.

Prevent & control moles

Preventing moles is easier said than done. To discourage these creatures you will need to remove the food source, unfortunately removing the worms and other invertebrates can prove nigh impossible and isn't really necessary on a garden lawn.

May people have tried to discourage moles with a variety of techniques. These include placing moth balls or tipping cooking oil, or disinfectant into the runs. There are other methods but unless the moles are completely removed they will most likely return.

Trapping moles (there are many types of trap available) can prove very successful, however many people are unhappy about harming these creatures. However trapping moles is a skilled job and quite often a professional has to be employed for this method to be successful.

The other method is to place phosphine gas tablets in the mole runs. These tablets are only available to lawn care specialists with the relevant application licence. Even if these gas tablets are used there are strict legal guidelines that have to be followed.

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Worms and worm cast problems on lawns

Worms are in many cases the gardeners friend as they provide a valuable contribution to the health of the lawn. Worms keep the soil aerated and breakdown the organic matter helping control the thatch layer. In fact a large population of worms points to a healthy soil.

However, despite these benefits worms are often seen as a problem on lawns and other areas of turf as they produce casts. This is especially true if the root zone or soil has a high clay content.  It this is the case then problems caused by worm casting may actually outweigh the benefits.

On a clay soil the worm casts tend to smear on the surface and can actually muddy conditions On lawns with a lighter root zone worm casting will be less of a problem as the worm casts are more easily dispersed.

There are many different species of worms, of which only 3 species actually produce casts.

Worms are a major problem on lawns during mild spells in the autumn and winter months when the soil becomes wetter thus encouraging worm activity close to the surface of the lawn. During colder, frosty weather the worms head deeper into the soil and are less problematic.

Problems caused by worms and wormcasting include:

• Wormcasts create muddy conditions.
  
• Encourages moles (worms are the food source of moles).
  
• Weed and weed grass invasion ( wormcasts create an ideal seedbed for weeds).
  
• If casting is very severe the levels of the lawn may be affected.
  

What causes worms in lawns

As with most problems in lawn care, worms favour particular conditions to be present within the soil. These soil conditions include:

• Wet soil and mild temperatures - Worm are predominantly a nuisance on lawns during wet mild spells of weather during the autumn and winter months. These conditions bring worm activity closer to the surface of the lawn where casts are deposited.
  
• Soil type - Although worms may be present in all types of soil conditions, they are more of a problem in soils with a high clay and high thatch (organic matter) content.
  
• The correct soil pH. Worms prefer soils with a high pH.
  
• High organic matter content. A soil with a high percentage of organic matter (thatch) will have a greater population of worms as this is there food source.
  

Preventing worms and wormcasts on the lawn

Without the use of chemicals (used by turf care professionals) to prevent worm and wormcasts problems on lawns, most amateur lawn enthusiasts are limited to cultural control methods. However it is important to understand that even with a good cultural worm control program you may still be met with limited success.
These cultural methods include:

• Reducing the organic matter content - As worms feed on organic matter it makes sense to reduce their food supply. operations such as scarifying and hollowtining will help reduce the organic matter (thatch) content. Boxing off clippings when mowing the lawn will prevent organic matter build up. Remove any leaves from the surface of the lawn during periods of leaf fall in the autumn months.
  
• Reduce the pH of the soil - Worms favour a soil with a high pH therefore only apply materials (fertiliser, top dressings etc) with a low pH. Over a period of time this will gradually reduce the pH and hopefully reduce the worm population in the lawn.
  

Chemical control of worms in the lawn

As mentioned earlier, even with good cultural practices to remove worms success can be limited and you may be left disappointed with the results. In the sports turf industry chemicals are used to control worms. However products such a chlordane which were used many years ago with great success are no longer available.


The only chemical currently available for worm control is a product called carbendazim which is widely used in the turf care industry. Carbendazim is actually a fungicide used to control fusarium and other lawn and turf diseases, however carbendazim also has worm suppressant properties. N. B. carbendazim (unlike previously banned chemicals) does not kill the worms, it acts more of an irritant and the worms simply go deeper into the soil.

Although this product is not available for amateur gardeners, professional lawn care companies of which there are many, can apply this chemical. Therefore if you feel that your worm problem warrants chemical treatment you may want to enlist the services of one of these lawn care specialist. However like many chemicals used in lawn care, they should only be used as a last resort.

Should I control worms

In most cases worms are best being left alone as they are good for the soil. The majority of casting will take place during the winter months when there will be little activity on the lawn anyway. If there are is any worm casting they can be brushed off the lawn with a besom (a brush that looks like a witches broom) or similar tool or implement during drier periods in the winter.

However, other gardeners may spend a lot of time and take great pride in their lawn and due to soil conditions worms may be causing the lawn to deteriorate somewhat. In this case someone may feel that worm control is justified.

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Take-all Patch Disease

Fortunately for gardeners Take all patch is not a very common lawn disease, as it can bequite devastating. The disease is very common on new sand based golf green constructions, where the root zone is still relatively sterile and has not had time to build up a population of micro organisms.

The disease is usually most active between June and December and primarily attacks bent grass. Until recently there have been no effective chemical treatments for this disease.

Take-all patch is often triggered by a sudden rise in the soil pH, especially following an application of lime. In professional turf care it has long been one of the most destructive diseases on golf and bowling greens, and until recently there has been no chemical control cure.

Identification of take-all patch

Take-all patch initially shows signs of activity during mid summer in June or July (however in some cases it can be earlier in the season). The disease appears as saucer shaped depressions of dead or dying bent grass. As the disease progresses these patches will join together, as they form large irregular patches on the lawn.

Causes of take-all patch

• Bent grass is particularly susceptible to Take all patch disease.
• New sand based constructions are particularly susceptible especially if the root zone was sterilised.
• Excessive thatch or organic matter build up will encourage take-all patch disease.
• Poor surface drainage will encourage the disease, as take-all patch spreads in the moisture.
• The use of alkaline materials such as fertiliser, top dressing and lime on the lawn.

Prevention and control of take-all patch

As turf fungicide use is restricted to professionals and contractors with the relevant qualifications, cultural prevention and damage limitation of take-all patch disease are the only options for amateur gardeners.

• Avoid applying materials and top dressings that contain a high content of lime (high pH).
• Applications of materials that acidify the surface such as iron sulphate, lawn sand and sulphate of ammonia etc may help minimise the damage caused by this disease.
• Control the build up of thatch with regular scarifying and aeration.
• Encourage a dry lawn surface dry by improving the drainage with aeration such as spiking.
• If the lawn becomes infected, overseed the infected areas with grass species such as fescue, that are resistant to take-all patch disease.
• Maintaining good turf health and vigour with a balanced fertiliser program will help prevent lawn disease.

Chemical control of Take all Patch disease

Until recently there was no fungicides available for the control of this disease. Presently there are fungicides on the market that will control Take all patch. However use is restricted to turf professionals such as golf greenkeepers and lawn care specialists with the relevant pesticide application qualifications.

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Red Thread Lawn Disease

Unlike many other lawn and turf diseases red hhread (Laetisaria fuciformis) is not limited to closely mown luxury lawns. It can infect all types of lawns and turf. However in almost all cases it is not as serious as some other lawn diseases and the turf will regain health with good management practices.


Although it can be a problematic at various times of the year, it is predominantly seen during the summer and autumn months. Although many species of grass can suffer from red thread,  fescue and rye grass are particularly susceptible to this lawn disease.

Identification of red thread

It is important to be vigilant and look out for irregular patches of pale brown or bleached leaves. Fescue and ryegrass and are particulary susceptible to Red thread. Initially these patches are 20-30mm in diameter, later increasing to 350mm across, as the disease takes hold. During periods of moist and damp weather conditions, red needle like strands or threads can be seen on the leaves of the infected plants.

Causes of Red Thread

Red thread can occur at any time of the year, it is particularly troublesome in the summer and autumn, during warm moist conditions on lawns suffering from the following symptoms:

• Soil compaction due to lack or an absence of  lawn aeration.
• Areas of the lawn that suffer from shade are prone to an attack from this disease.
• A deficiency of nitrogen is a contributory factor to an outbreak of Red Thread. (however, do not apply large amounts of nitrogen too late in the season as this can cause Fusarium patch disease).

Prevention and cure of Red Thread

• Pay attention to maintaining adequate turf nutrition, particularly nitrogen levels, (however high levels of nitrogen should not be applied too late in the summer as it could lead to Fusarium patch disease.
• If Red thread is a perennial problem over seed with a different species of grass. Alternatively choose fescue and rye grass cultivar's that are resistant to this disease.
• Box off grass clippings when mowing the lawn. Remove early morning dews to help keep the grass leaves dry.
• Relieving soil compaction to improve the surface drainage on the lawn by aeration will help reduce red thread.
• If possible prune tree branches back and remove vegetation to improve air flow and increase the amount of sun light. These actions will help keep the surface drier and reduce the risk of Red Thread.

Chemical control of Red Thread

As this disease rarely kills the grass in all but a few severe cases, chemical control using fungicides is very seldom needed. However effective fungicides are really only available for turf professionals such as golf green keepers and groundsmen. For amateur gardeners the choice is very limited.

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Fusarium patch disease

Fusarium patch disease is the most common and one of the most damaging lawn and turf diseases. It predominantly occurs in the autumn and winter months between October & March, however it can strike at any time of the year especially if the conditions are favourable for fusarium.

The disease is less of a problem on general purpose lawns, fusarium patch disease attacks closely mown luxury lawns that contains a high percentage of annual meadow grass, this grass species being very susceptible to attack. The disease is a widespread problem on closely mown sports turf such as golf and bowling greens.

Identify fusarium patch disease

Fusarium patch disease initially appears on the lawn or in areas of turf as small patches that measure up to 50mm in diameter. The leaves turn an orangy - brown colour and are mushy. Sometimes during early mornig dews, white cobweb like fungal threads can be seen on the infected areas.

As the disease quickly spreads the patches increase in size into larger patches that measure up to 300mm in diameter. As the severity of the attack increases, these patches can join together causing widespread damage to the lawn.

Conditions that favour fusarium patch disease

• Fusarium patch disease is most active during the cool and damp weather conditions typically associated with the autumn and winter months.
• Excess levels of nitrogen caused by late season applications of high nitrogen feeds will encourage fusarium patch disease.
• Areas of turf and lawns that suffer from shade lack sunlight and air movement, encourage fusarium patch disease.
• An excessive layer of thatch or organic matter build up encourages water retentive turf which in turn encourages fusarium.
• Surface alkalinity (high pH) caused by applications of lime or other materials with a high pH leaves the grass susceptible to this disease
• A lawn that contains a high percentage of annual meadow grass will always be at risk from an attack of fusarium, as this grass species is very susceptible.

Prevention and control of fusarium patch disease

• Fungicides are available for turf care professionals such as golf green keepers. Unfortunately for amateur gardeners the use of fungicides is severely limited and in many cases not allowed, therefore preventing fusarium patch is all the more important.
• Excess nitrogen is a contributing factor in many diseases including Fusarium patch disease. Avoid applying fertilisers with a high nitrogen content to late in the growing season.
• Apply an autumn / winter fertiliser at the end of the growing season with a high potash content. Potash is an important element for the grass plant during this period as it helps harden the plants against disease.
• Where possible prune back vegetation to allow more air and light into the garden. This will help keep the leaf of the grass dry which is important in preventing this disease from spreading.
• Regular mechanical operations like aeration and scarification are important to help control the thatch layer, thus helping in the fight against fusarium patch disease.
• Applications of sulphate of iron based products will help lower the surface pH therefore discouraging fusarium.
• Encourage grasses that are able to tolerate the disease as the expense of annual meadow grass.

A proper lawn maintenance program will be geared towards encouraging bent and fescues at the expense of annual meadow grass. Annual meadow grass is very prone to fusarium patch, whilst bents and fescues are more tolerant to the disease Gear your lawn maintenance program to promote healthier sward helping it withstand disease and many other turf care problems. In the world of professional turf care fungicides are used to control fusarium. However amateur gardeners don't have access to these products, this makes the cultural preventative measures all the more important. Fungicides can only be applied by turf professions with the relevant spraying certificates.

Chemical control of fusarium patch disease

Turf professionals  such as golf greenkeepers and groundsmen have a big advantage over the amateur gardener, as they have access to a range of turf fungicides in their fight against disease. Many people prefer to spray a preventative application when the conditions are conducive to an outbreak of fusarium patch disease.

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Lawn Disease

A lawn disease or turf disease is often defined as anything that has a negative effect on the grass plant. Lawn Disease, the majority of which are caused by fungi can attack all types of lawns and turf areas. Different diseases attack luxury lawns and other will attack utility lawns depending on the environmental factors and types of grass in the lawn.

For a lawn disease to become active 3 factors must be present.

• Environmental factors - Grasses can become stressed by different climatic & maintenance conditions leaving them susceptible to lawn disease. It may be too cold, too dry or too wet, however these conditions are out of our control. Other factors such as mowing heights, drainage, turf nutrition and irrigation needs can be controlled by us and can play a big part in a successful prevention plan.
  
  
• The soil pathogens -Pathogens are the fungi or bacteria that cause lawn and turf disease. Many of these pathogens are already present in the organic matter, becoming active if favourable conditions occur to cause an outbreak of disease. Pathogens can also spread from outside agencies such as other lawns, playing-fields, parks amongst others.
  
  
• The grass species -Different species of grass are susceptible to different diseases. e.g. Annual meadow grass suffers from fusarium, and anthracnose, bents suffer from take-all patch, fescues from red thread etc.
  

This lawn disease section covers the most common diseases found on lawns and turf throughout the UK. These include:

• Fusarium Patch 
• Red Thread
• Take-all Patch 
• Anthracnose
• Dollar Spot
• Fairy Rings
• Slime Mould

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Chafer Grubs in the lawn

Chafer Grubs are the larvae of the Chafer Beetle, which is also known as the May bug. It can often be seen during warm evenings in the early summer. Chafer grubs have many similarities to Leatherjackets, they feed on the grass roots, the damage caused it similar and they attract the same predators.

Although not as common Leatherjackets, Chafer grubs can live in the soil for up to 3 years before they emerge on the surface as beetles. Chafer Grubs can measure up to 15mm in length. The head is light brown and the 'C shaped' body is a creamy - white colour with 3 pairs of legs on the upper body.


The adult beetles can measure up to 40mm in length. They have a black thorax with brown legs and wings.
The cycle begins in the adult beetle lays its eggs during the early summer, often in May or June (depending on the climatic conditions. Shortly afterwards the eggs will hatch and the grubs will feed on the grass roots until September - October. Following this period of activity they move deeper into the ground for the remaining winter months. Come spring time they emerge on the surface of the lawn as beetles.

The damage caused by Chafer grubs is very similar to that caused by Leatherjackets. The grubs feed on the roots of the grass causing a yellowing effect on the lawn as the grass weakens. The grass can easily be pulled out by hand due to the damage to the roots. The grubs will reach maturity during August - September, this is when the most extensive damage to the lawn will occur.

As with Leatherjackets predators such as birds and mammals will cause further damage as they tear up the turf as they go in search of these grubs. These predators include badgers, foxes and birds including crows and magpies.

Prevention and cure of Chafer Grubs

Identifying Chafer Grubs problems early is important so be vigilant and look for any abnormal bird activity on the lawn. Once the problem has been identified the lawn can be treated with a nematode based product available from most good garden centers.

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Leatherjackets in the lawn

Leatherjackets are the larvae of the European Crane Fly (Daddy Long Legs) and can cause major damage on the lawn if they are not effectively controlled. These small legless grubs which have no noticeable head, measure approximately 25mm long, are grey to brown in colour (see image to the right), and as their name suggests they have a leathery skin.

Leatherjackets cause damage to the lawn by feeding on the roots of the grass. Further damage which is often more serious than caused by the leatherjackets is caused predators feeding on the grubs as they tear up the turf. These predators include birds like crows and rooks and other mammals such as foxes and badgers.

Lifecycle of Leatherjackets

The cycle begins when the Crane Fly lays their eggs, (up to 300) in the lawn during the late autumn. The eggs hatch after two weeks into Leatherjackets. The Leatherjackets remain in the ground over winter as they grow and feed on the grass roots.

They continue feeding and growing into following spring is when the most damage is caused. During May and June they pupate before they hatch into Crane Flies, where they surface and fly away. The Crane Flies then mate and the process begins again as they lay their eggs in the autumn.

Prevention of Leatherjackets

In the case of Leatherjackets, prevention is certainly better than the cure for the amateur gardener or lawn care enthusiast. If you observe a large population of Crane Flies during the later summer / early autumn period this can be an early indicator that Leatherjackets are likely to be a problem.

The damage the following spring is often more severe if the autumn - winter period has been particulary wet and mild. If the infestation is severe the grass will have a yellowing apearance and can easily be pulled out by hand causes by the grubs eating the roots. Bird damage is a good indicator of a large population of Leatherjackets as they tear up the turf as they go insearch of the grubs.

If this is the case there are numerous nematode products that can be applied to control the Leatherjackets. These nematode products should be applied during the late summer - early autumn when the ground is still relatively warm. A further application in the spring can be made if the infestation is severe. However it is important to note that these products require a warm soil to be effective and this is not always the case in the spring time.

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that kill the Leatherjackets but are harmless. However it is important that you adhere to the manufacturers guidelines when applying these products.
Another method of removing Leatherjackets is to place a black polythene sheet over the lawn during the night.

The following morning the Leatherjackets will come to the surface of the lawn where they can be removed. This method of control is significantly more effective following rainfall when the soil is very wet.

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Thatch in the lawn

What is lawn thatch

Lawn thatch is a layer of organic matter that accumulates between the grass sward and the soil (see photo to the right). Thatch or organic matter is generally decaying plant stems, roots and runners.
A small amount of lawn thatch (about 12mm) is beneficial to the lawn as it creates resilience and improves wear tolerance.

However when the accumulation of thatch becomes too excessive (over 25mm) it creates problems, ultimately resulting in a weak lawn prone to disease, water logging, poor root growth and more.
Therefore it is important to monitor the thatch layer and take remedial action if build up starts to become excessive.

Thatch only becomes a problem when the plant produces more debris than what is being broken down naturally. The rate at which the thatch layer accumulates is determined by certain factors. These include soil conditions, maintenance program, weather conditions, soil pH and the grass species.

The causes of lawn thatch

Previously we mentioned it is important to monitor thatch build up, however if we understand what causes thatch build up we can help prevent it becoming a problem. The main causes of build up are:

• Over fertilising the lawn with nitrogen - Too much nitrogen causes the grass to quicker and in turn produce more organic matter adding to the thatch layer.

• Over watering the lawn - A major contributor to the lawn thatch layer. Thatch is naturally degraded or broken down by micro organisms. The micro organisms thrive in dry soils that contain lots of air space. Watering unnecessarily reduces the available air in the soil, thus reducing the percentage of micro organisms and thatch an natural degradation of the thatch will be reduced.

• Grass species - Certain types of grasses produce more thatch than others. Fescue and Bent which are very desirable grasses are known to produce thatch rapidly.

Why is thatch bad for a lawn

As we have touched upon previously a little thatch is good for a lawn as it creates resilience and insulates the lawn. However when there is excessive thatch it causes major problems on the health of the lawn which include.

• Pest and diseases - An excessive thatch layer is an ideal environment for many lawn and turf pests and disease such as moss, worms and fusarium patch disease.

• Poor surface drainage - Thatch is very water retentive and inhibits drainage, this in turn encourages disease, moss, weeds.

• Shallow rooted weed grasses - Desirable grasses such as Bents and Fescues prefer dry free draining soils and will be replaced with water loving shallow rooted grasses like Annual Meadow Grass.

• Poor drought tolerance - As thatch encourages shallow rooting grasses, the lawn is will naturally have poor drought tolerance during dry periods.

• Reduce the effectiveness of chemicals and fertilisers - Certain lawn care products are more effective if they can penetrate into the soil (root zone). An excessive thatch layer inhibits soil penetration, therefore effectiveness of the products is reduced.

How to control and prevent thatch

Preventing the build up of thatch with the correct cultural practices and lawn care program is better than having to deal with thatch once it has become a problem. A sound management program will help slow down build up and at the same time increase the speed at which thatch degrades. These cultural practices include.

• Correct use of fertilisers - Avoid applying too much nitrogen during the growing season. Too much nitrogen encourages excessive growth and the grass will produce organic matter at an increased rate.

• Avoid over watering the lawn - Don't water the lawn unless it is starting to show signs of drought stress. If you do irrigate the lawn, water heavily and infrequently letting the lawn dry out between each watering. Avoid watering little and often as this keeps the soil moist for longer periods and will have a detrimental affect on the micro organisms which break down thatch.

• Employ a regular aeration program - Aeration plays an important part in the breakdown of thatch in the lawn. The micro organisms (bacteria which breakdown thatch) thrive in dry soils with lots of air space.

• Employ a regular scarification program - Scarifying at key times during the year (spring and autumn) will physically remove lawn thatch and keep the layer at an acceptable level.

• Employ a regular scarifying program - Scarifying removes lateral growth and thatch and keeps the accumulation of thatch in check.

• Top dressing - Top dressing the lawn will help dilute the thatch layer. It is very beneficial to top dress after aeration (particularly hollow tining) as the dressing can be worked into the upper soil profile. This helps increase airspace and remove surface water encouraging the breakdown of thatch.

Removing lawn thatch

If the thatch layer has reached an unacceptable level and is having an adverse effect on the lawn it will need removing. The two most effective methods of removal are scarification and / or aeration using hollow tines.

• Scarification - The most effective and most common method of removing thatch is by scarification. This process involves a powered machine, fitted with a row of vertical tines or blades, which penetrate into the surface of the lawn to remove thatch (see photo to the right). The ideal times for scarifying is during the spring and autumn. However it is important that there is sufficient growth for the lawn to make a complete recovery as scarifying can leave the lawn looking thin and sparse.

• Hollow tining - Another effective way of removing thatch from a lawn is by hollow tine aeration. This is the process of removing small cores of thatch / soil in the upper soil profile. It is removed by the tines which are basically hollow tubes which are pushed or punched into the surface of the lawn. This operation can be carried out using either a hand held hollow tine fork or implement or alternatively a powered aerator fitted with hollow tines. Again spring and autumn are the preferred times for this task.

Both of these methods when used in conjunction with lawn top dressing will be beneficial in helping with the
breakdown of thatch.

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Starweed - Buckshorn Plantain

Plantago coronopus

General - Starweed also widely known as  Buckshorn Plantain  is an annual or perennial weed, it is very common on sandy free draining coastal sites. This weed grows as a flat rosette type plant that can tolerate close mowing.

Leaves - The leaves are long and thin with prominent toothed edges. They are generally hairy but can be occasionally smooth.

Flowers - The small cylindrical flowers are bourn on a long stalk and flower between May and October.

Roots - Starweed produces a strong tap root.

Habitat - This weed can grow in many habitats but prefers sandy free draining soils. It is very common on coastal sites.

Cultural Control - Starweed can be hand weeded, but be sure to remove the whole plant. As weeds are opportunistic and look for bare areas of soil, a good maintenance program that encourages a thick sward will help discourage lawn weeds.

Chemical Control - If the weed is kept in check by the cultural methods, chemicals should rarely be needed to control Starweed. However if the problem is widespread, most selective weed killers will kill this weed. All selective weed killers are more effective during periods of active growth, usually between April and September.

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Ribwort Plantain

Plantago lanceolata

General - Ribwort Plantain is a common perennial weed, it can be found in all types of turf and grassland. Like all Plantains they can adapt to tolerate close mowing. This weed is also known as Narrow Leaf Plantain.

Leaves - The leaves are long and narrow with prominent ribs or veins. The leaves grow from a single point and form a flat rosette.

Flowers - The short flowers are bourn on a long stalk, flowering between April and October.

Roots - Ribwort Plantain is a shallow rooting plant with a fibrous root system.

Habitat - This weed can adapt to all types of soil conditions, especially dry, compact soils with a high pH.

Cultural Control - As Plantains grow as individual plants hand weeding will prove successful, taking care to remove the whole plant. Relieving soil compaction with aeration will help prevent this weed. Encouraging a healthy lawn with good lawn care practices will help suppress weed invasion.

Chemical Control - If you go down the chemical route, consider spot treating the weed. Ribwort Plantain is susceptible to most selective weed killers. When applying chemicals follow the manufactures guidelines for the best results.

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Greater Plantain

Plantago major

General - Greater Plantain is a perennial weed, it is a rosette type weed very common on compacted soils and is often a good indication of lawns suffering from compaction. This low growing weed can tolerate close mowing and reproduces by seed.

Leaves - The large broad oval leaves have prominent parallel ribs, the leaves all grow from a single point and form a flat rosette.

Flowers - Bourn on a single stem the flower forms as a dense cone of smaller green flowers, later turning brown. Greater Plantain flowers between May and October.

Roots - The roots of this shallow rooting weed are fibrous.

Habitat - Greater Plantain prefers dry, compacted and alkaline soils but can adapt to most conditions.

Cultural Control - Hand weed, taking care to remove the while plant. Remove the flower heads before they turn brown and start to seed. As Greater Plantain prefers compacted soil, remedy this problem with aeration. Keeping the lawn in a healthy condition will encourage a tight sward and deter any weeds.

Chemical Control - Chemical weed control should ideally be only be used as last resort, when all other methods of control have been exhausted. Greater Plantain is not a difficult weed to control and there are many weed killers available that will control this weed.

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Scarlet Pimpernel

General Information: Scarlet Pimpernel also known as 'Poor Man's Weatherglass' is an annual weed. The leaves are very similar to those of Common Chickweed. However this weed can be identified by its square stems and red flowers (Common chickweed stems are round and the flower is white). Scarlet Pimpernel is not a weed found in fine turf, is confined to neglected lawns, bare areas and waste ground.

Leaf: As previously stated, the leaves are quite similar to Common Chickweed. They are light green in colour, oval shaped and from in pairs at intervals on the stems.

Flower: The distinct flowers of Scarlet Pimpernel can be seen from June - September. Each flower consists of five petals which are an orangey - reddish colour.

Preferred habitat: Scarlet Pimpernel thrives in moist soil conditions.

Control: As we have previously mentioned this weed is more of a problem in rough and neglected lawns. It can be discouraged with regular mowing, which will make it disappear. It should not be a problem in  lawns that receive regular mowing and routine maintenance.

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Black Medic

Medicago lupulina

General Information: Black Medic can be both an annual and perennial weed. It is very similar in appearance to Lesser Trefoil (Yellow Suckling Clover), however Black Medic is less common than Lesser Trefoil, especially on fine turf as it is usually confined to neglected lawns. The main difference and the best way to distinguish between the two weeds, is that the seed pods turn black at the end of the season on Black Medic (see pictures below).

Leaf: Black Medic leaves form as 3 leaflets similar in appearance to White Clover and Lesser Trefoil. The leaflets of Black medic can have a pointed tip (not always the case), which is not seen on the others.

Flower: The small yellow flowers can be seen between the months of April and October. Again similar to Yellow Suckling Clover, but when ripe the pods turn black on Black Medic.

Preferred Habitat: Black Medic prefers nutrient deficient, dry soils, particularly on lawns that have been neglected.

Cultural control: As this weed is an annual hand weeding can prove effective, especially if the plants are few in number. Maintain good turf vigour with a balanced feed program, this will encourage a thick coverage of grass to help discourage weeds invading. Regular light scarification or raking prior to mowing will help remove and weaken Black Medic.

Chemical Control: If however they have spread into larger patches, chemical control will be necessary using a selective weed killer from the list below. In most cases more than one application will be needed for successful control, as Black medic is a stubborn weed to control with chemicals. Once the weed has been removed or controlled the bare area can be filled with a mixture of suitable soil and grass seed to aid recovery.

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Smooth Hawksbeard

Crepis capillaris

General - Smooth Hawksbeard can be an annual or biennial. It is not normally a problem on mown lawns and turf but can occasionally be a problem during dry periods. The weed forms as a rosette type weed with a deep taproot.

Leaves - The leaves are similar to those of dandelion but are smaller in size. The leaf is narrow with deeply toothed lobes.

Flower - Smooth Hawksbeard flowers are very similar to other Dandelion like weeds such as Cats Ear and Autumn Hawkbit. The distinct yellow flowers can be seen between June and October.

Roots - Smooth Hawksbeard has a long fleshy taproot.

Habitat - This weed prefers dry, sandy, free draining soils.

Cultural Control - Physically remove individual plants by hand weeding taking care to remove the whole taproot. Maintain adequate turf vigour with a balanced fertiliser program to encourage a thick sward which will prevent the invasion of weeds.

Chemical Control - Chemicals should ideally be only used as a last resort after all other cultural methods have been exhausted. Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and mecoprop-p or 2,4-D and dicamba or alternatively a weed killer containing fluroxypyr should be equally effective. A further application may be needed to control Smooth Hawksbeard.

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