Take-all Patch Disease

Fortunately for gardeners Take all patch is not a very common lawn disease, as it can bequite devastating. The disease is very common on new sand based golf green constructions, where the root zone is still relatively sterile and has not had time to build up a population of micro organisms.

The disease is usually most active between June and December and primarily attacks bent grass. Until recently there have been no effective chemical treatments for this disease.

Take-all patch is often triggered by a sudden rise in the soil pH, especially following an application of lime. In professional turf care it has long been one of the most destructive diseases on golf and bowling greens, and until recently there has been no chemical control cure.

Identification of take-all patch

Take-all patch initially shows signs of activity during mid summer in June or July (however in some cases it can be earlier in the season). The disease appears as saucer shaped depressions of dead or dying bent grass. As the disease progresses these patches will join together, as they form large irregular patches on the lawn.

Causes of take-all patch

• Bent grass is particularly susceptible to Take all patch disease.
• New sand based constructions are particularly susceptible especially if the root zone was sterilised.
• Excessive thatch or organic matter build up will encourage take-all patch disease.
• Poor surface drainage will encourage the disease, as take-all patch spreads in the moisture.
• The use of alkaline materials such as fertiliser, top dressing and lime on the lawn.

Prevention and control of take-all patch

As turf fungicide use is restricted to professionals and contractors with the relevant qualifications, cultural prevention and damage limitation of take-all patch disease are the only options for amateur gardeners.

• Avoid applying materials and top dressings that contain a high content of lime (high pH).
• Applications of materials that acidify the surface such as iron sulphate, lawn sand and sulphate of ammonia etc may help minimise the damage caused by this disease.
• Control the build up of thatch with regular scarifying and aeration.
• Encourage a dry lawn surface dry by improving the drainage with aeration such as spiking.
• If the lawn becomes infected, overseed the infected areas with grass species such as fescue, that are resistant to take-all patch disease.
• Maintaining good turf health and vigour with a balanced fertiliser program will help prevent lawn disease.

Chemical control of Take all Patch disease

Until recently there was no fungicides available for the control of this disease. Presently there are fungicides on the market that will control Take all patch. However use is restricted to turf professionals such as golf greenkeepers and lawn care specialists with the relevant pesticide application qualifications.

Read More

Red Thread Lawn Disease

Unlike many other lawn and turf diseases red hhread (Laetisaria fuciformis) is not limited to closely mown luxury lawns. It can infect all types of lawns and turf. However in almost all cases it is not as serious as some other lawn diseases and the turf will regain health with good management practices.


Although it can be a problematic at various times of the year, it is predominantly seen during the summer and autumn months. Although many species of grass can suffer from red thread,  fescue and rye grass are particularly susceptible to this lawn disease.

Identification of red thread

It is important to be vigilant and look out for irregular patches of pale brown or bleached leaves. Fescue and ryegrass and are particulary susceptible to Red thread. Initially these patches are 20-30mm in diameter, later increasing to 350mm across, as the disease takes hold. During periods of moist and damp weather conditions, red needle like strands or threads can be seen on the leaves of the infected plants.

Causes of Red Thread

Red thread can occur at any time of the year, it is particularly troublesome in the summer and autumn, during warm moist conditions on lawns suffering from the following symptoms:

• Soil compaction due to lack or an absence of  lawn aeration.
• Areas of the lawn that suffer from shade are prone to an attack from this disease.
• A deficiency of nitrogen is a contributory factor to an outbreak of Red Thread. (however, do not apply large amounts of nitrogen too late in the season as this can cause Fusarium patch disease).

Prevention and cure of Red Thread

• Pay attention to maintaining adequate turf nutrition, particularly nitrogen levels, (however high levels of nitrogen should not be applied too late in the summer as it could lead to Fusarium patch disease.
• If Red thread is a perennial problem over seed with a different species of grass. Alternatively choose fescue and rye grass cultivar's that are resistant to this disease.
• Box off grass clippings when mowing the lawn. Remove early morning dews to help keep the grass leaves dry.
• Relieving soil compaction to improve the surface drainage on the lawn by aeration will help reduce red thread.
• If possible prune tree branches back and remove vegetation to improve air flow and increase the amount of sun light. These actions will help keep the surface drier and reduce the risk of Red Thread.

Chemical control of Red Thread

As this disease rarely kills the grass in all but a few severe cases, chemical control using fungicides is very seldom needed. However effective fungicides are really only available for turf professionals such as golf green keepers and groundsmen. For amateur gardeners the choice is very limited.

Read More

Fusarium patch disease

Fusarium patch disease is the most common and one of the most damaging lawn and turf diseases. It predominantly occurs in the autumn and winter months between October & March, however it can strike at any time of the year especially if the conditions are favourable for fusarium.

The disease is less of a problem on general purpose lawns, fusarium patch disease attacks closely mown luxury lawns that contains a high percentage of annual meadow grass, this grass species being very susceptible to attack. The disease is a widespread problem on closely mown sports turf such as golf and bowling greens.

Identify fusarium patch disease

Fusarium patch disease initially appears on the lawn or in areas of turf as small patches that measure up to 50mm in diameter. The leaves turn an orangy - brown colour and are mushy. Sometimes during early mornig dews, white cobweb like fungal threads can be seen on the infected areas.

As the disease quickly spreads the patches increase in size into larger patches that measure up to 300mm in diameter. As the severity of the attack increases, these patches can join together causing widespread damage to the lawn.

Conditions that favour fusarium patch disease

• Fusarium patch disease is most active during the cool and damp weather conditions typically associated with the autumn and winter months.
• Excess levels of nitrogen caused by late season applications of high nitrogen feeds will encourage fusarium patch disease.
• Areas of turf and lawns that suffer from shade lack sunlight and air movement, encourage fusarium patch disease.
• An excessive layer of thatch or organic matter build up encourages water retentive turf which in turn encourages fusarium.
• Surface alkalinity (high pH) caused by applications of lime or other materials with a high pH leaves the grass susceptible to this disease
• A lawn that contains a high percentage of annual meadow grass will always be at risk from an attack of fusarium, as this grass species is very susceptible.

Prevention and control of fusarium patch disease

• Fungicides are available for turf care professionals such as golf green keepers. Unfortunately for amateur gardeners the use of fungicides is severely limited and in many cases not allowed, therefore preventing fusarium patch is all the more important.
• Excess nitrogen is a contributing factor in many diseases including Fusarium patch disease. Avoid applying fertilisers with a high nitrogen content to late in the growing season.
• Apply an autumn / winter fertiliser at the end of the growing season with a high potash content. Potash is an important element for the grass plant during this period as it helps harden the plants against disease.
• Where possible prune back vegetation to allow more air and light into the garden. This will help keep the leaf of the grass dry which is important in preventing this disease from spreading.
• Regular mechanical operations like aeration and scarification are important to help control the thatch layer, thus helping in the fight against fusarium patch disease.
• Applications of sulphate of iron based products will help lower the surface pH therefore discouraging fusarium.
• Encourage grasses that are able to tolerate the disease as the expense of annual meadow grass.

A proper lawn maintenance program will be geared towards encouraging bent and fescues at the expense of annual meadow grass. Annual meadow grass is very prone to fusarium patch, whilst bents and fescues are more tolerant to the disease Gear your lawn maintenance program to promote healthier sward helping it withstand disease and many other turf care problems. In the world of professional turf care fungicides are used to control fusarium. However amateur gardeners don't have access to these products, this makes the cultural preventative measures all the more important. Fungicides can only be applied by turf professions with the relevant spraying certificates.

Chemical control of fusarium patch disease

Turf professionals  such as golf greenkeepers and groundsmen have a big advantage over the amateur gardener, as they have access to a range of turf fungicides in their fight against disease. Many people prefer to spray a preventative application when the conditions are conducive to an outbreak of fusarium patch disease.

Read More

Lawn Disease

A lawn disease or turf disease is often defined as anything that has a negative effect on the grass plant. Lawn Disease, the majority of which are caused by fungi can attack all types of lawns and turf areas. Different diseases attack luxury lawns and other will attack utility lawns depending on the environmental factors and types of grass in the lawn.

For a lawn disease to become active 3 factors must be present.

• Environmental factors - Grasses can become stressed by different climatic & maintenance conditions leaving them susceptible to lawn disease. It may be too cold, too dry or too wet, however these conditions are out of our control. Other factors such as mowing heights, drainage, turf nutrition and irrigation needs can be controlled by us and can play a big part in a successful prevention plan.
  
  
• The soil pathogens -Pathogens are the fungi or bacteria that cause lawn and turf disease. Many of these pathogens are already present in the organic matter, becoming active if favourable conditions occur to cause an outbreak of disease. Pathogens can also spread from outside agencies such as other lawns, playing-fields, parks amongst others.
  
  
• The grass species -Different species of grass are susceptible to different diseases. e.g. Annual meadow grass suffers from fusarium, and anthracnose, bents suffer from take-all patch, fescues from red thread etc.
  

This lawn disease section covers the most common diseases found on lawns and turf throughout the UK. These include:

• Fusarium Patch 
• Red Thread
• Take-all Patch 
• Anthracnose
• Dollar Spot
• Fairy Rings
• Slime Mould

Read More

Chafer Grubs in the lawn

Chafer Grubs are the larvae of the Chafer Beetle, which is also known as the May bug. It can often be seen during warm evenings in the early summer. Chafer grubs have many similarities to Leatherjackets, they feed on the grass roots, the damage caused it similar and they attract the same predators.

Although not as common Leatherjackets, Chafer grubs can live in the soil for up to 3 years before they emerge on the surface as beetles. Chafer Grubs can measure up to 15mm in length. The head is light brown and the 'C shaped' body is a creamy - white colour with 3 pairs of legs on the upper body.


The adult beetles can measure up to 40mm in length. They have a black thorax with brown legs and wings.
The cycle begins in the adult beetle lays its eggs during the early summer, often in May or June (depending on the climatic conditions. Shortly afterwards the eggs will hatch and the grubs will feed on the grass roots until September - October. Following this period of activity they move deeper into the ground for the remaining winter months. Come spring time they emerge on the surface of the lawn as beetles.

The damage caused by Chafer grubs is very similar to that caused by Leatherjackets. The grubs feed on the roots of the grass causing a yellowing effect on the lawn as the grass weakens. The grass can easily be pulled out by hand due to the damage to the roots. The grubs will reach maturity during August - September, this is when the most extensive damage to the lawn will occur.

As with Leatherjackets predators such as birds and mammals will cause further damage as they tear up the turf as they go in search of these grubs. These predators include badgers, foxes and birds including crows and magpies.

Prevention and cure of Chafer Grubs

Identifying Chafer Grubs problems early is important so be vigilant and look for any abnormal bird activity on the lawn. Once the problem has been identified the lawn can be treated with a nematode based product available from most good garden centers.

Read More

Leatherjackets in the lawn

Leatherjackets are the larvae of the European Crane Fly (Daddy Long Legs) and can cause major damage on the lawn if they are not effectively controlled. These small legless grubs which have no noticeable head, measure approximately 25mm long, are grey to brown in colour (see image to the right), and as their name suggests they have a leathery skin.

Leatherjackets cause damage to the lawn by feeding on the roots of the grass. Further damage which is often more serious than caused by the leatherjackets is caused predators feeding on the grubs as they tear up the turf. These predators include birds like crows and rooks and other mammals such as foxes and badgers.

Lifecycle of Leatherjackets

The cycle begins when the Crane Fly lays their eggs, (up to 300) in the lawn during the late autumn. The eggs hatch after two weeks into Leatherjackets. The Leatherjackets remain in the ground over winter as they grow and feed on the grass roots.

They continue feeding and growing into following spring is when the most damage is caused. During May and June they pupate before they hatch into Crane Flies, where they surface and fly away. The Crane Flies then mate and the process begins again as they lay their eggs in the autumn.

Prevention of Leatherjackets

In the case of Leatherjackets, prevention is certainly better than the cure for the amateur gardener or lawn care enthusiast. If you observe a large population of Crane Flies during the later summer / early autumn period this can be an early indicator that Leatherjackets are likely to be a problem.

The damage the following spring is often more severe if the autumn - winter period has been particulary wet and mild. If the infestation is severe the grass will have a yellowing apearance and can easily be pulled out by hand causes by the grubs eating the roots. Bird damage is a good indicator of a large population of Leatherjackets as they tear up the turf as they go insearch of the grubs.

If this is the case there are numerous nematode products that can be applied to control the Leatherjackets. These nematode products should be applied during the late summer - early autumn when the ground is still relatively warm. A further application in the spring can be made if the infestation is severe. However it is important to note that these products require a warm soil to be effective and this is not always the case in the spring time.

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that kill the Leatherjackets but are harmless. However it is important that you adhere to the manufacturers guidelines when applying these products.
Another method of removing Leatherjackets is to place a black polythene sheet over the lawn during the night.

The following morning the Leatherjackets will come to the surface of the lawn where they can be removed. This method of control is significantly more effective following rainfall when the soil is very wet.

Read More

Thatch in the lawn

What is lawn thatch

Lawn thatch is a layer of organic matter that accumulates between the grass sward and the soil (see photo to the right). Thatch or organic matter is generally decaying plant stems, roots and runners.
A small amount of lawn thatch (about 12mm) is beneficial to the lawn as it creates resilience and improves wear tolerance.

However when the accumulation of thatch becomes too excessive (over 25mm) it creates problems, ultimately resulting in a weak lawn prone to disease, water logging, poor root growth and more.
Therefore it is important to monitor the thatch layer and take remedial action if build up starts to become excessive.

Thatch only becomes a problem when the plant produces more debris than what is being broken down naturally. The rate at which the thatch layer accumulates is determined by certain factors. These include soil conditions, maintenance program, weather conditions, soil pH and the grass species.

The causes of lawn thatch

Previously we mentioned it is important to monitor thatch build up, however if we understand what causes thatch build up we can help prevent it becoming a problem. The main causes of build up are:

• Over fertilising the lawn with nitrogen - Too much nitrogen causes the grass to quicker and in turn produce more organic matter adding to the thatch layer.

• Over watering the lawn - A major contributor to the lawn thatch layer. Thatch is naturally degraded or broken down by micro organisms. The micro organisms thrive in dry soils that contain lots of air space. Watering unnecessarily reduces the available air in the soil, thus reducing the percentage of micro organisms and thatch an natural degradation of the thatch will be reduced.

• Grass species - Certain types of grasses produce more thatch than others. Fescue and Bent which are very desirable grasses are known to produce thatch rapidly.

Why is thatch bad for a lawn

As we have touched upon previously a little thatch is good for a lawn as it creates resilience and insulates the lawn. However when there is excessive thatch it causes major problems on the health of the lawn which include.

• Pest and diseases - An excessive thatch layer is an ideal environment for many lawn and turf pests and disease such as moss, worms and fusarium patch disease.

• Poor surface drainage - Thatch is very water retentive and inhibits drainage, this in turn encourages disease, moss, weeds.

• Shallow rooted weed grasses - Desirable grasses such as Bents and Fescues prefer dry free draining soils and will be replaced with water loving shallow rooted grasses like Annual Meadow Grass.

• Poor drought tolerance - As thatch encourages shallow rooting grasses, the lawn is will naturally have poor drought tolerance during dry periods.

• Reduce the effectiveness of chemicals and fertilisers - Certain lawn care products are more effective if they can penetrate into the soil (root zone). An excessive thatch layer inhibits soil penetration, therefore effectiveness of the products is reduced.

How to control and prevent thatch

Preventing the build up of thatch with the correct cultural practices and lawn care program is better than having to deal with thatch once it has become a problem. A sound management program will help slow down build up and at the same time increase the speed at which thatch degrades. These cultural practices include.

• Correct use of fertilisers - Avoid applying too much nitrogen during the growing season. Too much nitrogen encourages excessive growth and the grass will produce organic matter at an increased rate.

• Avoid over watering the lawn - Don't water the lawn unless it is starting to show signs of drought stress. If you do irrigate the lawn, water heavily and infrequently letting the lawn dry out between each watering. Avoid watering little and often as this keeps the soil moist for longer periods and will have a detrimental affect on the micro organisms which break down thatch.

• Employ a regular aeration program - Aeration plays an important part in the breakdown of thatch in the lawn. The micro organisms (bacteria which breakdown thatch) thrive in dry soils with lots of air space.

• Employ a regular scarification program - Scarifying at key times during the year (spring and autumn) will physically remove lawn thatch and keep the layer at an acceptable level.

• Employ a regular scarifying program - Scarifying removes lateral growth and thatch and keeps the accumulation of thatch in check.

• Top dressing - Top dressing the lawn will help dilute the thatch layer. It is very beneficial to top dress after aeration (particularly hollow tining) as the dressing can be worked into the upper soil profile. This helps increase airspace and remove surface water encouraging the breakdown of thatch.

Removing lawn thatch

If the thatch layer has reached an unacceptable level and is having an adverse effect on the lawn it will need removing. The two most effective methods of removal are scarification and / or aeration using hollow tines.

• Scarification - The most effective and most common method of removing thatch is by scarification. This process involves a powered machine, fitted with a row of vertical tines or blades, which penetrate into the surface of the lawn to remove thatch (see photo to the right). The ideal times for scarifying is during the spring and autumn. However it is important that there is sufficient growth for the lawn to make a complete recovery as scarifying can leave the lawn looking thin and sparse.

• Hollow tining - Another effective way of removing thatch from a lawn is by hollow tine aeration. This is the process of removing small cores of thatch / soil in the upper soil profile. It is removed by the tines which are basically hollow tubes which are pushed or punched into the surface of the lawn. This operation can be carried out using either a hand held hollow tine fork or implement or alternatively a powered aerator fitted with hollow tines. Again spring and autumn are the preferred times for this task.

Both of these methods when used in conjunction with lawn top dressing will be beneficial in helping with the
breakdown of thatch.

Read More

Starweed - Buckshorn Plantain

Plantago coronopus

General - Starweed also widely known as  Buckshorn Plantain  is an annual or perennial weed, it is very common on sandy free draining coastal sites. This weed grows as a flat rosette type plant that can tolerate close mowing.

Leaves - The leaves are long and thin with prominent toothed edges. They are generally hairy but can be occasionally smooth.

Flowers - The small cylindrical flowers are bourn on a long stalk and flower between May and October.

Roots - Starweed produces a strong tap root.

Habitat - This weed can grow in many habitats but prefers sandy free draining soils. It is very common on coastal sites.

Cultural Control - Starweed can be hand weeded, but be sure to remove the whole plant. As weeds are opportunistic and look for bare areas of soil, a good maintenance program that encourages a thick sward will help discourage lawn weeds.

Chemical Control - If the weed is kept in check by the cultural methods, chemicals should rarely be needed to control Starweed. However if the problem is widespread, most selective weed killers will kill this weed. All selective weed killers are more effective during periods of active growth, usually between April and September.

Read More

Ribwort Plantain

Plantago lanceolata

General - Ribwort Plantain is a common perennial weed, it can be found in all types of turf and grassland. Like all Plantains they can adapt to tolerate close mowing. This weed is also known as Narrow Leaf Plantain.

Leaves - The leaves are long and narrow with prominent ribs or veins. The leaves grow from a single point and form a flat rosette.

Flowers - The short flowers are bourn on a long stalk, flowering between April and October.

Roots - Ribwort Plantain is a shallow rooting plant with a fibrous root system.

Habitat - This weed can adapt to all types of soil conditions, especially dry, compact soils with a high pH.

Cultural Control - As Plantains grow as individual plants hand weeding will prove successful, taking care to remove the whole plant. Relieving soil compaction with aeration will help prevent this weed. Encouraging a healthy lawn with good lawn care practices will help suppress weed invasion.

Chemical Control - If you go down the chemical route, consider spot treating the weed. Ribwort Plantain is susceptible to most selective weed killers. When applying chemicals follow the manufactures guidelines for the best results.

Read More

Greater Plantain

Plantago major

General - Greater Plantain is a perennial weed, it is a rosette type weed very common on compacted soils and is often a good indication of lawns suffering from compaction. This low growing weed can tolerate close mowing and reproduces by seed.

Leaves - The large broad oval leaves have prominent parallel ribs, the leaves all grow from a single point and form a flat rosette.

Flowers - Bourn on a single stem the flower forms as a dense cone of smaller green flowers, later turning brown. Greater Plantain flowers between May and October.

Roots - The roots of this shallow rooting weed are fibrous.

Habitat - Greater Plantain prefers dry, compacted and alkaline soils but can adapt to most conditions.

Cultural Control - Hand weed, taking care to remove the while plant. Remove the flower heads before they turn brown and start to seed. As Greater Plantain prefers compacted soil, remedy this problem with aeration. Keeping the lawn in a healthy condition will encourage a tight sward and deter any weeds.

Chemical Control - Chemical weed control should ideally be only be used as last resort, when all other methods of control have been exhausted. Greater Plantain is not a difficult weed to control and there are many weed killers available that will control this weed.

Read More

Scarlet Pimpernel

General Information: Scarlet Pimpernel also known as 'Poor Man's Weatherglass' is an annual weed. The leaves are very similar to those of Common Chickweed. However this weed can be identified by its square stems and red flowers (Common chickweed stems are round and the flower is white). Scarlet Pimpernel is not a weed found in fine turf, is confined to neglected lawns, bare areas and waste ground.

Leaf: As previously stated, the leaves are quite similar to Common Chickweed. They are light green in colour, oval shaped and from in pairs at intervals on the stems.

Flower: The distinct flowers of Scarlet Pimpernel can be seen from June - September. Each flower consists of five petals which are an orangey - reddish colour.

Preferred habitat: Scarlet Pimpernel thrives in moist soil conditions.

Control: As we have previously mentioned this weed is more of a problem in rough and neglected lawns. It can be discouraged with regular mowing, which will make it disappear. It should not be a problem in  lawns that receive regular mowing and routine maintenance.

Read More

Black Medic

Medicago lupulina

General Information: Black Medic can be both an annual and perennial weed. It is very similar in appearance to Lesser Trefoil (Yellow Suckling Clover), however Black Medic is less common than Lesser Trefoil, especially on fine turf as it is usually confined to neglected lawns. The main difference and the best way to distinguish between the two weeds, is that the seed pods turn black at the end of the season on Black Medic (see pictures below).

Leaf: Black Medic leaves form as 3 leaflets similar in appearance to White Clover and Lesser Trefoil. The leaflets of Black medic can have a pointed tip (not always the case), which is not seen on the others.

Flower: The small yellow flowers can be seen between the months of April and October. Again similar to Yellow Suckling Clover, but when ripe the pods turn black on Black Medic.

Preferred Habitat: Black Medic prefers nutrient deficient, dry soils, particularly on lawns that have been neglected.

Cultural control: As this weed is an annual hand weeding can prove effective, especially if the plants are few in number. Maintain good turf vigour with a balanced feed program, this will encourage a thick coverage of grass to help discourage weeds invading. Regular light scarification or raking prior to mowing will help remove and weaken Black Medic.

Chemical Control: If however they have spread into larger patches, chemical control will be necessary using a selective weed killer from the list below. In most cases more than one application will be needed for successful control, as Black medic is a stubborn weed to control with chemicals. Once the weed has been removed or controlled the bare area can be filled with a mixture of suitable soil and grass seed to aid recovery.

Read More

Smooth Hawksbeard

Crepis capillaris

General - Smooth Hawksbeard can be an annual or biennial. It is not normally a problem on mown lawns and turf but can occasionally be a problem during dry periods. The weed forms as a rosette type weed with a deep taproot.

Leaves - The leaves are similar to those of dandelion but are smaller in size. The leaf is narrow with deeply toothed lobes.

Flower - Smooth Hawksbeard flowers are very similar to other Dandelion like weeds such as Cats Ear and Autumn Hawkbit. The distinct yellow flowers can be seen between June and October.

Roots - Smooth Hawksbeard has a long fleshy taproot.

Habitat - This weed prefers dry, sandy, free draining soils.

Cultural Control - Physically remove individual plants by hand weeding taking care to remove the whole taproot. Maintain adequate turf vigour with a balanced fertiliser program to encourage a thick sward which will prevent the invasion of weeds.

Chemical Control - Chemicals should ideally be only used as a last resort after all other cultural methods have been exhausted. Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and mecoprop-p or 2,4-D and dicamba or alternatively a weed killer containing fluroxypyr should be equally effective. A further application may be needed to control Smooth Hawksbeard.

Read More

Bristly-ox Tongue

Picris echioides

General Information: Bristly ox-tongue is a dandelion type weed which is both annual and biennial.

It is not often found  in well maintained lawns, it is more confined to general purpose and neglected lawns.

The weed forms as a basal plant and will adapt to tolerate close mowing if needed.

However it can reach a height of 1 metre if left alone and allowed to grow.

Leaf: Bristly ox-tongue has long narrow oblong shaped leaves.

Each leaf has many whitish swollen pimples which are rough and bristly, which can cause some irritation and discomfort when handled.

The weed takes it name from the characteristics of the leaves.

Flowers: Bristly ox-tongue flowers are can be seen from June to September, as it produces clusters of yellow Dandelion type  flowers.

Each flower is capable of reaching up to 25mm in diameter.

Habitat: Bristly ox-tongue will grow on a wide range of soil types. However it is usually confined to bare ground and neglected areas of turf.

Control: Hand weed any individual plants. For a large infestation a selective herbicide will have to be used.

Use a selective weed killer containing a mixture of 2,4-D, Dicamba and Mecoprop-p, repeat again 6 weeks later if necessary.

Read More

Cats Ear

Hypochaeris radicata

General - Cats Ear has a perennial lifecycle and is a problem weed on all types of lawn.

It grows in a prostate rosette type appearance and will quite happily tolerate close mowing.

Cats Ear has some similarities with the Dandelion in its appearance.

However the leaves on Cats Ear are hairy and the lobes are more rounded.

Leaves - The lance shaped leaves are hairy and irregularly lobed. They form in a rosette appearance.

Flowers - Cats Ear flowers are similar to those of the Dandelion but smaller in size. They can be seen between May to September

Roots - Cats Ear has a deep tap root.

Habitat -This weed can grow on a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers sandy free draining soils.

Cultural Control - Hand weeding Cats Ear can be effective, however make sure the whole root is removed or it can regenerate.

Mow the lawn regularly and remove the clippings to prevent flower and seed head formation.

Maintain turf nutrition with a balanced fertiliser program, this will encourage a healthy vigorous sward that will discourage weed invasion.

Chemical Control - Cats Ear can be controlled using a weed killer. Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and mecoprop-p or 2,4-D and dicamba or clopyralid and fluroxypyr.

Any of these formulations should be effective against Cats Ear, however a further application maybe needed for satisfactory results.

Read More

Autumn Hawkbit

Leontodon autumnalis

General - Autumn Hawkbit is a perennial weed that grows in a rosette formation, it is generally not a serious problem on mown lawns and turf.

It is more common in longer grass such as roadside verges and meadows.

Leaves - The leaves are very narrow with deep lobes, however the leaves can vary between plants and can sometimes be confused with those of Cats Ear.

Flowers - Autumn Hawkbit flowers are similar to those of Dandelion but smaller in size. The yellow flowers can be seen between July and October.

Roots - Autumn Hawkbit has a tap root.

Habitat - Autumn Hawkbit can tolerate a wide range of conditions, especially poorly drained soils.

Cultural Control - The weed can be physically removed by hand weeding, taking great care to remove all of the root.

Encourage a thick sward of grass to prevent any weeds taking advantage of any weak or thin areas on the lawn.

Chemical Control - If chemicals are to be used spot treatment is an ideal option for Autumn Hawkbit control.

Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and mecoprop-p, a further application may be necessary about 6 weeks later to control this weed.

Selective weed killers should be applied when the weeds are actively growing usually between April and September.

Read More